By Gary Bunzer
Often in my live seminars, I state the following, “If there was a single subject all participants within the entire RVing spectrum would agree, from trade organizations, to design engineers, RV manufacturers, dealers, suppliers, RV service technicians to RV owners, that subject would center on the importance of RVing safety." Personal safety being paramount followed closely by product or equipment safety. It stands to reason, that the first rule of successful RVing might just be; Never compromise the safety factor!
Webster further opines; “safe=ty \\ 1: the condition of being safe from undergoing or causing hurt, injury or loss. To protect against failure, breakage or accident.”
I think we can all agree that, either consciously or subconsciously, overtly or covertly, safety is crucial and quite proportional to the level of RVing enjoyment we encounter.
Literally every major system on the typical RV requires a conscientious safety sensibility including the propane system, the electrical systems, even the plumbing systems (think ground contamination and the spread of bacteria when evacuating holding tanks!). Many redundant safety features are integral to most of the devices and appliances we utilize when we travel. Many RVers would be quite unaware of most of them, but all RVers should be aware of certain other safety related devices and their necessity for periodic attention. What follows is certainly not a complete list of all the safety gadgets and accoutrements found within the RVing realm, but those presented here are crucial for continued personal and product RVing safety.
Propane System
Additionally, there are three vital tests to be performed at least annually, (more often in some cases). The propane regulator lock-up test, a delivery line pressure test and a timed, pressure drop test are paramount to RVing safety. Any Certified or Master Certified RV technician can perform these three tests.
Propane Gas Detector
Propane gas detectors can be periodically tested by opening
the valve on an inexpensive butane cigarette lighter near the sensor port on
the detector. Do not ignite the flame on the lighter, but simply open the
lighter’s valve releasing some of the butane. The alarm should sound within a
couple seconds. Test the detector at least twice per year in this manner. The
detector pictured here happens to be a combination propane and carbon monoxide (CO)
detector.Carbon Monoxide Detector (CO)
Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s installation
instructions when replacing or installing the CO monitor. Some suggest mounting
on a wall about five feet up from the floor. Since CO is slightly lighter than
air, others recommend mounting on the ceiling. Personally, I like to see them mounted about head or chest high. Most all RV CO detectors are
battery powered so remember to replace its battery twice every camping season.
UL 2034 is the governing document for CO monitors. Keep in mind, they must also
be listed for use in a recreation vehicle. Smoke Alarm
In my opinion, every RV should be equipped with at least one
smoke alarm. The smoke alarm should be battery powered in case of a power
outage in the middle of the night and mounted on the ceiling. If your RV has a
separate bedroom (one partitioned by some type of door or divider), it is a
code requirement that it be equipped with smoke alarm. Most all smoke alarms today use an ionization chamber and a source of ionizing radiation to detect smoke. This type of smoke detector is relatively inexpensive and much better at detecting the smaller amounts of smoke produced by fires common to RVs. They too, have an effective lifespan and should be replaced periodically. Like all other RV listed components, smoke detectors should abide by UL 217.
The ionization chamber, by the way, incorporates airflow slots that are prone to gathering dust. As part of an annual maintenance program for the electronic safety devices, it is recommended to remove the outside cap of the smoke alarm and carefully wipe away any dust inhibiting air into and through the ionization chamber cover. Do not remove the cover of the chamber; just carefully remove all remnants of dust.
Sensor-Equipped Detector Maintenance
All the devices listed above contain some form of electronic circuitry and a sensor of some type. I won’t bore you with those details here, but the basic maintenance required by these devices is relatively simple for all RVers to perform. All battery-powered devices should have new batteries installed at the beginning and in the middle of each camping season.
Additionally, it is advisable to carry spare batteries during lengthy RVing excursions; just in case. All the detectors mentioned above will come equipped with a test function, typically a simple push of a test button will let the user know the horn is still in operating condition. Test each of the devices prior to and once each week during every RV excursion.
Periodically, it will be necessary to wipe down the face of all detectors with a dry cloth. Dust accumulation and blocked sensor ports can minimize a sensor’s effectiveness and further reduce its useful life. Never paint an electronic detector or use cleaning agents, waxes or polish on them. Simply keep them free from dust and other airborne contaminants.
Likewise, most the safety devices mentioned above come
stamped or otherwise labeled with an estimated or suggested replacement date.
Always adhere to the manufacturer’s suggested replacement date. It’s simply not
worth the risk of a device malfunctioning in order to gain a few more months’
use. Consider it cheap insurance! Fire Extinguishers
All RVers should become familiar with the different types of fires and fire extinguishers available. The most common type associated with RVs is a B:C type; a dry powder extinguisher containing sodium bicarbonate. All motorized RVs are required to have at least one 10B:C extinguisher while towable RVs require one 5B:C extinguisher at a minimum. As mentioned above, most safety experts recommend a minimum of three extinguishers in or on all recreation vehicles. The number associated with the type indicates how many square feet that extinguisher can effectively cover. So a single 10B:C extinguisher can be used over an area of 10 square feet against a type B or type C fire.
All fire extinguishers require periodic inspections to be sure they are fully charged and in proper working condition. If any doubt exists, always have them inspected by a professional fire safety company. B:C extinguishers can and do leak pressure over time.
Non-Contact Proximity Tester
A simple device called a
proximity tester can easily determine if stray alternating current (AC)
electricity is present on the skin or other metallic component of the RV. Many
RVers carry a voltmeter or VOM and possibly a plug-in circuit analyzer with
them as they travel, and that’s a good thing. But open grounds, reversed
polarity and other electrical anomalies associated with faulty extension cords
or miswired campground pedestals can result in deadly voltage on the skin of an
RV. A non-contact, proximity tester can also be used to verify the polarity of any
campground pedestal receptacle, before plugging in. If stray voltage is detected on the metallic parts of any RV, immediately disconnect from shore power and call a Certified or Master Certified RV technician and contact the campground administrator or maintenance staff. Do not plug the RV in until the fault is located and repaired. Relatively inexpensive, non-contact proximity test devices should be found in every RVers tool kit.
Non-Technical Safety Equipment



